20th century tribes of fashion

Ever notice how annoying it is when somebody copies you? Although it’s said to be the “largest form of flattery” it’s still irritating. And for some reason it’s a part of human nature.

How many times have you heard children out at the park running and tattling to their mothers – frustrated that the neighbour won’t stop copying them? As parents we try to calm them down and lift their spirits by saying things like “just ignore them” when really we’re all cringing inside remembering the first time we had a follower who jacked our cartwheel combo, or hairstyle, or song idea – just to look cool.

It’s probably one of the most upsetting things for creative people. Hours of literal blood, sweat and tears are poured into bringing forth an idea into something tactile and real. In those cases imitation does not feel like flattery at all – but more like robbery.

We are seeing this more and more in the American fashion industry. Uninspired designers scouring cultures around the world have recently targeted Ongwehonwe imagery.

Perhaps they showed up at a pow wow, saw all our fine looking Ongwehonwe lads and ladies decked out in their finest ear candy and blinged-out medallions. There the designers were “struck with inspiration”. They rush back to the studio and send out generic “Navajo” designs – reprint them in mass quantities over in some Cambodian sweat shop and sell them at fifty bucks a pop. More if they’re working an exclusive label that has brand power.

Sometimes then, imitation is not the highest form of flattery – it’s just imitation. And in the case of the fashion industry vs. the cultural identity of an entire people group – it’s just wrong. This is cultural misappropriation.

There is a whole generation of MTV and Kardashian obsessed youth coming up in the days of culturally misappropriating not only Ongwehonwe imagery and cultural items – but also those of the Black and East Indian communities.

White women are considered edgy when they wear “dreadlocks” yet when an African-American teen wears them she is mocked. Non-Indian celebrities wear henna tattoos and bindi while getting drunk and rocking out at music festivals – all the while not realizing that bindi has a significant cultural and religious significance to the Indian community.

In this case – imitation is just embarrassing. And hurtful to the people whose culture is getting jacked in the name of fashion.

On one hand our indigenous people standing up for indigenous issues are seen as us “angry”, “refusing to forgive” and “carrying forward a spirit of offence”. Our issues are ignored and misrepresented by national media.

But on the other hand our geometric designs are cool and worth about $400 when printed on a Coach bag. Not to mention the disrespect this serves to myriads of indigenous artisans who have been hand craft the individual pieces the fashion industry is “flattering” with their imitation.

If cultural appropriation is so offensive then the question is – why does it continue to the extent it has?

This month we are celebrating diversity, both within the wider global community and diversity within the indigenous community. However that is not to be taken as an open door for copying, imitating or misappropriating anything about our human identity. It is about respecting, honouring the beauty, and recognizing the significance of people from all backgrounds, all nations, and their important place in the beautiful garden of life.

While there is a wonderful place for sharing our culture, stealing it is not an option.

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